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Author Topic: New type of Dog-earing  (Read 4116 times)
wagga
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« on: June 03, 2008, 08:01:22 PM »

Been trialing a new type of dog-earing for a few months. Have cut down on detailing 80% at least. Now much faster and accurate.
Saw into ends of blade, bend up and forwards. Its like fingers pointing into corner of rubber. stops blade floating over window neoprene seals etc. Use an old channel to practice with.
see pic
Chris
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frankybadboy
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« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2008, 08:30:53 PM »

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Been trialing a new type of dog-earing for a few months. Have cut down on detailing 80% at least. Now much faster and accurate.
Saw into ends of blade, bend up and forwards. Its like fingers pointing into corner of rubber. stops blade floating over window neoprene seals etc. Use an old channel to practice with.
see pic
Chris
chris
tried sawing into blade.saw and rubber didnt seem to work Tongue Tongue Tongue Tongue Tongue
then looked at picture and saw that you meant the channel Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes ::)oppppppppppsssssssssssssssssssss
going to try it when i get 5mins.
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wagga
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« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2008, 08:50:56 PM »

Don't worry about it! I didn't explain properly. Once you get this right youll be flying I can tell you
It's amazing how much time you can save not having to do much detailing.
It realy works and Iv'e done all my tools now including my Wagtails. Trouble with the Wagtail is it's aluminuum and very weak. However it still works and I'm one happy bunny!
Chris
 Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
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Blade Runner
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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2008, 07:01:30 PM »

Wagga,try this and see how ya go on with it.Above the rounded part
On your channel,with a junior or normal hack saw cut along approx.
8 millimeters.Then cut off.File and smooth down any rough parts and `burrs`
Etc. with a file.Then `dog-ear`the `new`channel end.Then set your rubber
Approx.2 millimeters over the new ènd`.That leaves a distance of approx.
6 millimeters between the end of your channel and the end of your rubber.
That distance avoids riding up the moulding at all,acts as a `back stop`
On all windows with mouldings.It eliminates `detailing`completely.
Obviously do this both ends of channel.It takes about 15 minutes to prepare
Each channel.
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wagga
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« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2008, 08:30:30 PM »

Cheers blade, sound a good idea. Any chance of a pic to make sure I undeerstand it?
 
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Blade Runner
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« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2008, 09:04:32 PM »

I used aluminium channels at the time.Its easier to cut and work
With.Funnily enough I don`t use a squeegee as much as I did,but
This method does work and add speed to your technique.I`ll see
If I have one of my original channels that I did use.If so,I`ll have
To send it to you personally.Don`t know how to send `pics`to the
Group.
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Blade Runner
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« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2008, 09:14:29 PM »

Wagga,had a look in my workshop,can`t find any.As I recall
I remember cutting my economy alu channels up for some
Custom cut size cottage size panes for an inside hotel I do.
I`ve none left.Can ya see where Ì`m coming from` with those
Instructions I sent.?
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wagga
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« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2008, 06:09:47 PM »

Thanks for the help blade, Im not sure what u mean, but I understand about the stop bit.
Only just learnt how to post pics myself. Got my son to show me.

 Grin
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agpm06
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« Reply #8 on: June 14, 2008, 12:39:36 AM »

got the hacksaw out today  Grin ;Dwell pleased 9x£3.75 houses in 55 mins .cuts down detailing ,some houses none at all.cheers guys would never have thought of doing it myself. Wink
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Duke
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« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2008, 04:03:07 PM »

any probs with pics, send them to me at  You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login  ...and I'll post them on your behalf...that goes for anyone.
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wagga
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« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2008, 09:51:33 PM »

Thanks Duke.
With reference to the new type of dog-earing, Iv'e been using it for a while now and it's realy working.
In fact it's absolultly brilliant and I don't have to detail much anymore at all.
The only downside as Karl pointed out is that the tips of the rubber blade wear a bit quicker but as you are earning more it realy does'nt matter.
Regards
Chris.

 Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
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stuart mci
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« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2009, 09:57:39 PM »

wagga i tried this today and what a differnce ;)thanks for the pic buddy i wish i tried it months ago, anybody using a squeegie try this now
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WavieDavie
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« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2009, 11:32:37 PM »

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any probs with pics, send them to me at  You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login  ...and I'll post them on your behalf...that goes for anyone.

Hi Duke! Haven't seen you for ages, did you get out early for good behaviour  Grin

The only problem I have with pics on here is that I can't see the soddin things! I can see a gap in the posts, but nothing else.
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stuart mci
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2009, 11:35:32 PM »

ive sent you an email
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DK-Fire
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« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2009, 06:53:18 PM »

Stuart... Do you have any pictures of the doggie thing ??
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stuart mci
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« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2009, 06:57:08 PM »

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Stuart... Do you have any pictures of the doggie thing ??
Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked the doggy thing

no mate but i will take a pic and post it later and if you cant see it i can email a pic if that helps
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stuart mci
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« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2009, 07:09:10 PM »


or this one


i just borrowed waggas pics
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wagga
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« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2009, 08:05:36 PM »

Cheers for doing the pic's. Remember, don't over-do it, you can always bend it a bit more. Cut your rubber fairly close to the end of the new finger.
 Cheesy
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DK-Fire
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« Reply #18 on: April 22, 2009, 08:37:31 PM »

I did the same thing on my tools, but without cutting, so dosen't weaken it.
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johnedwardlee
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« Reply #19 on: April 22, 2009, 08:39:03 PM »

Wagga
Have you ever tried a Sorbo products squeegee. It is very accurate and very little detailing
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wagga
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« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2009, 11:10:04 PM »

No I hav't used Sorbo. I know they are good, but the reason I don't use them now is that I only use Wagtail. The swivel and flip is crucial to my pole-work now. Anyway thanks for the advice, much appreciated
Wagga
 Grin
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Blade Runner
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« Reply #21 on: April 25, 2009, 07:51:41 AM »

Good `pics`Wagga,but do you get a good finish every time?
On upvc windows with a seal,I find that it`s impossible to get
A neat finish with your rubber set at the end of the channel.
The rubber needs to be `set`inside the channel,or alternatively
A `notch`cut out of the rubber itself.


Lewis Doubtfire Gleem Clean ( The blade Runner )
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wagga
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« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2009, 11:36:57 PM »

Hi Lewis, I get a good finish most of the time. You cant expect perfection, especially when going at the speed us window cleaners go. Having said that, it's a massive improvement on no dog-earing at all and loads better than conventional dog-earing. Most of the time I don't need to detail anymore. Just mop up mistakes etc.
I admit I havn't tried the notch thing and I didn't like the rubber set inside as the metal scraped the edges and would still push the rubber out from the side of the frame especially the right hand side(if your right handed) Also, the main point to this new dog-earing is the bend that points toward the CORNERS of the blade. ITS THESE CORNERS THAT LIFT OVER  THE SEALS. The other bend is basically the same dog-ear as its always been.
The beauty of this is that it works on all types of window, wether or not it wood or upvc with or without seals.

 Grin
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Blade Runner
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« Reply #23 on: April 26, 2009, 06:55:36 AM »

I recon it would be the upvc windows that would `get me`.
Normal wood frames or any without seals.
Wagga,did you ever try that `thingy`where I explained about
Cutting out sections of your channel at all?
I think you did,but not sure.
I don`t want to risk messing up my Wagtail channel.I`ve done
It on economy aluminium channels and it works a treat.
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wagga
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« Reply #24 on: April 26, 2009, 09:56:00 PM »

No I didn't try it. I couldn't figure out what you meant. If I remember rightly, there was a problem with the pic. Anyway, thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
Wagga.
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